Seventh week - October (Ekim) 27 - November (Kasim) 2

This week’s highlights include the Cumhurriyet Bayram, or Turkish Republic Day (the equivalent of our Fourth of July holiday), and a second trip to Yedigoller National Park, this time successfully accomplished. For photos of this week's events, please see: http://anatolianphotos.shutterfly.com/

Oct 29 marks the anniversary of the founding of the Turkish Republic in 1923, so this year’s celebration is the 86th anniversary of the country’s beginning, as envisioned by Ataturk.

We live in the country’s capital city, Ankara, in a neighborhood within walking distance of the Anatkabir, Ataturk’s Mausoleum. So, with the university and other institutions closed for the holiday (on Thursday this year), and the weather a beautiful, warm, 70 degrees or so, we decided to take the walk to the Mausoleum and see what’s up. We knew in advance that there would be a parade and a visit by the country’s president. The latter would lay a wreath at Ataturk’s tomb (something President Obama did just a few months ago). But, before we left, we saw – and heard – the military jets flying in closely timed formation over the Mausoleum, so we figured (correctly) that we missed the President’s ceremony.

On the walk to the Anitkabir, we noted the numerous Turkish flags draped outside buildings, including homes. The flags, some of which depicted portraits of Ataturk, on official buildings and other large institutional buildings, were enormous, often covering an entire side of a multiple story building. Approaching the Mausoleum, the crowds grew thicker, the vendors more numerous (selling flags, balloons, headbands, plaques, water bottles, and simit (the bagel type treat, covered with sesame seeds—yum!). At one point, we found ourselves standing in line, waiting to get into the complex and pass through security. This was clearly the place to be on Republic Day—possibly the most appropriate locale in the entire country to celebrate this particular holiday.

Inside the complex were lines of thousands of people waiting to get into the Mausoleum itself to pay respects to the country’s founder. We decided to wait to pay our respects on another day when it was not so crowded. (In fact, we had been here fifteen years ago). Instead, we did a lot of people watching; for example, we watched a mini-parade carrying a large portrait of Ataturk up the Mausoleum steps, then down through the crowds. Meanwhile, people sang numerous patriotic songs. At the end of the courtyard opposite the Mausoleum was the burial site of President Inonu, the second president of the Republic, and a person noted for his role in the War of Independence prior to the establishment of the country. Beneath the sarcophagus was a small museum of Inonu’s accomplishments. Surrounding the courtyard itself, and behind a large colonnade, is a museum celebrating Ataturk’s military prowess and the founding of the Republic. We perused some of these exhibits to escape the crowds.

Leaving the Anatkabir complex, we exited from a different direction, walking (again with thousands of others) along the “Lion Walk,” a long, wide boulevard flanked by dozens of stone lions. This walk in particular, and much of the complex, were strongly reminiscent of Egyptian temple complexes, but without reference to religious matters. The lion walk ended with two towers—Freedom and Independence-- each containing additional artifacts and historical information (in Turkish and English). Our visit to Anatkabir fifteen years ago was with an organized tour. This time we went solo, enabling us to spend a very leisurely visit at one of Turkey’s most revered sites.

Two day later, we headed again to downtown Ankara’s Tempo Tur location, to board a bus for another attempt at reaching the Yedigoller Mille Parki (Seven Lakes National Park). This two-day trip was similar to the one that ended so abruptly two weeks before, except that the itinerary for the first day was entirely different. How lucky for us that we didn’t have to repeat the first day’s visit from the previous tour! How unlucky for us that it rained the entire weekend. (The previous tour had warm, sunny weather). The first day’s rain was light and intermittent. The second day, when we were higher in the mountains we had light rain at first, then snow (!!!!), followed by heavier, steadier rain. Sheesh!

1st day itinerary: First we stopped at Abant, a lake resort, with several large hotels and restaurants surrounding a large lake. We had two hours to wander around the lake, following a paved road, a new boardwalk through a pretty swamp, and paved pathways surrounding parts of the lake. Larry and I, who headed out on our own (this time it was okay), ate our bagged lunch sitting on a covered swing, trying to stay dry. On several occasions, I tried to take photographs of the horse-drawn decorated carriages that carried people around the lake—those who preferred not to walk, that is. Alas, they were just too fast for me to get my camera ready. We considered walking the entire distance around the lake, which was pretty big, but decided it was not worth risking missing the bus. I think we would have needed three hours to complete the circuit, not the two hours that we had.

Next stop: Golkoy Dam Lake. Driving through several villages, we stopped at a coffee shop (closed, though) on the lake, which we think may be a reservoir. As with last week, the tour was conducted in Turkish, so we don’t know the story about this lake. (We eventually found at least six people among the twenty who speak English). There was no chance, though, that we could walk around here, as the rain increased and the beach was muddy and slippery. Instead, we resigned ourselves to a less than thrilling first day.

HOWEVER, we did not read our itinerary correctly. The best was yet to come! Climbing up (in the bus) a mountain road, we caught a glimpse of a large white cliff higher up the mountain. Where we were expecting to visit a cave, it turned out that the word we were misinterpreting was “traverten,” which means, roughly, calcium formation. We were headed up the mountain to visit a mini-Pamukkale. (For information and photos of the latter, please see: http://www.turizm.net/cities/pamukkale/index.html )

First stop at the Travertens was the Cesme (fountain), where two fountains spill out warm (although not hot) mineral water. Despite my bout with food poisoning two weeks earlier, and my vow not to eat or drink anything outside, I decided to take the chance and drink some of the salty mineral water. We all partook, so I figured this time, if I got sick, everyone else would too. Our driver – everyone called him “Captain” – brought two huge water bottles to fill from the fountain to take home with him. (Of course this meant that he and our guide had to carry them back uphill to the bus, a heavy undertaking).

After we drank our fill and took our photos, we headed back uphill to the actual “Traverten,” the cascading mineral deposits formed by the dissolution of minerals in the rock by the warm waters flowing down the side of the mountain. Not as spectacular as Pamukkale, farther west in Turkey, it is nonetheless very impressive. Somebody, however, decided that this formation may prove to be more of a tourist draw if it were made to resemble Pamukkale more than it does. So (and this is my interpretation), the waters were channeled through constructed cement troughs to spill in a controlled flow to create the scalloped pools so prevalent at Pamukkale. If you check my photos on the Shutterly site (Turkey – seventh week), you will see that several decades of this controlled flow is beginning to take effect. Unfortunately, the scalloped pools are all in a row, and look very artificial. Above the travertine was also constructed a large pool and what looks like the beginning of a tourist area. Unfortunately, something intervened (the current global financial crisis? or maybe other events) to prevent the completion of a serviced tourist area, and it all looks somewhat abandoned. Nonetheless, we enjoyed it immensely. Despite my fear of heights, I mustered up the courage to walk down a small walk on the edge of the mountain to take some photos. No one, though, had the nerve to go down the stone steps leading even closer to the travertine; it was just too wet (still raining) and scary looking.

Next stop: the Koroglu Hotel. Our itinerary has this hotel listed, much to my relief. At least I won’t be eating the same food that (maybe) got me sick last time. Plus, the Prestige Hotel, where we last stayed, was awfully noisy. After a long, winding drive through the narrow streets of Bolu, the Captain (who got lost a few times) finally found the hotel – The Prestige Hotel—the same one as last time! Ack! What are we doing here? Turns out our itinerary was wrong—eveyone else’s said Prestige Hotel. Naturally, and to my great embarrassment, the hotel staff recognized us and asked how I was feeling. Turns out that we had a smaller, but better located, room, so the noise was not so much an issue this time. Besides, there were fewer people staying there this time, so the live entertainment did not continue as late. The entertainment that was there was also of a quieter nature this time—Turkish folk music. And the food was still excellent, even though I avoided most of the uncooked dishes. So, the Prestige Hotel has vindicated itself in my view. If only, now, it were in a more interesting part of town. We tried walking around the neighborhood, but it wasn’t very attractive; and it was raining. (I had left my umbrella by mistake in the bus, and the Captain was nowhere to be found).

Next day: Yedigoller!

After a light hotel breakfast, we headed out of Bolu to Yedigoller National Park. The clouds had thickened from the day before, but we all had our jackets and/or umbrellas and were ready for the long-awaited adventure.

Three hours of driving were necessary to get us to the park. About one half, maybe two thirds, of the journey took us over some very scary mountain roads. Although the park was not all that far away – maybe twenty miles? – I would guess the Captain drove no faster than five or ten miles per hour on those roads.

Sitting at a left window seat, I basically had one of the scariest views. Hugging the mountain side on the right, the bus’s left wheels (and my head) were no more than two feet or so from the edge of the unpaved, one lane road, with no guardrails. What was beyond those two feet put my heart in my throat – a drop of maybe one thousand feet or so down the mountainside. We’re not talking vertical cliff per se. But it was an immediate drop at an angle I estimate to be about 20 degrees. (or 160 degrees, depending on how one is looking at the angle; I forget my geometry here). Whatever the angle, it was ALMOST straight down. I kept looking at the trees growing on the slope (so it couldn’t be THAT steep, right?), determining whether they were strong enough to stop a cascading bus.

Then, as we climbed higher and the rain continued, it turned to snow! Aiieeee! Now we’re on an unpaved mountain road in the snow! I want to go home! The Captain stopped at the top of the highest mountain we traversed; it was sort of a rest stop, except I wasn’t sure there was a rest room anywhere. A small building sat at the summit, atop lots of stone steps. No one went up those steps; I would guess the building wasn’t open. Next to the bus, though, was a series of three small shacks, with a woman selling a variety of goods, such as large mushrooms she likely picked herself, and small bunches of dried yellow flowers. I was too cold to search for money to buy any of the flowers (forget wild mushrooms!). A small table seemingly ready for tea remained unused. We wondered how on earth this solo woman got up here, as we saw no houses anywhere on our trek up the mountain. We did see a man and some cows on the side of the road earlier; likewise we wondered how (and why) he was there. Just another mystery we will continue to ponder.

The descent on the other side of the mountain wasn’t quite as scary, but I was greatly relieved when we finally approached the park. Before entering, though, we made two stops to hike up some trails. With the rain continuing, we assumed that the wet, steep trails would be slippery, but they were not, much to our relief. In New England, these trails would have been impossible to traverse in the rain—very slippery. But I am thankful for small favors. The first trail led to a photo-op platform. Our view would likely have been spectacular if the mountains hadn’t been sitting in thick clouds, some of which were still spilling their contents on us. The second trail led to a gorgeous 500-year old black pine tree holding court at the top of a tall hill. We loved it. Both trail walks took about ½ hour each. I felt badly for the people who were not up to climbing and had to wait in the cold bus for us (about 10 – 12 of us) to return.

Once we got in the park, the rain got heavier. We hiked around a few of the lakes, while we women kept our eyes peeled for a WC, or rest room. After we succeeded, we were able to enjoy the remaining lakes and waterfalls. The park was really very pretty, but nothing as impressive as that road that led to it. I have a feeling that the approach itself is very much part of the park experience. Anyway, we saw more pretty lakes, the significance of which is that they are all on different levels and spill into each other with waterfalls. We were told that all seven lakes were once joined as one, then separated. I don’t quite get it, but I’m sure there is some geological explanation for this phenomenon.

Before tackling the last lake, we decided we were too hungry to do so. So, while the Captain cooked kofte (like little hamburgers), sausages, and tavuk (marinated chicken), we – too hungry to wait – made cheese and veggie sandwiches, and wolfed them down with relish. All while hovering next to the barbecue pits, covered with a leaking roof that fit only a few people under it at a time. The rain kept getting more insistent, and we all started to shiver from the cold. Any wonder, then, that by consensus, we decided to cut the day short and skip the last lake hike? Off we went, back to Ankara, with one rest stop at a place where I could have spent a fortune on locally packaged treats.

And no food poisoning! Yay!